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8 Day Mt Aspiring Course

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Description

This course is designed for budding climbing partners to learn to work together under the tutelage of a professional guide. 
The course is run on the slopes and glaciers of Mt. Aspiring with a focus on team work. If the instructor feels the team is ready, an ascent of Mt. Aspiring will be attempted. Structured with a focus on enabling a self-contained ascent of a 3000m peak in the future, the course builds upon a wide range of skills enabling you to move with confidence through the mountain environment and preparing you for more technical routes. 

Whether your preference is towards technical rock routes or classic ice climbs – you will find the Expedition Mt Aspiring Course a great way to attain the necessary skills. Mount Aspiring (3027m/9928ft grade 2+NW ridge) is the only 3000m peak outside of Mount Cook National Park. 

It is called the Matterhorn of the South. The NW ridge can be accessed from the Bonar glacier by climbing up what is referred to as The Ramp. This involves up to 8-9 pitches of climbing on a snow / ice ramp which leads onto a ridge climb to the Summit snow cap. This involves snow and ice terrain up to the summit. 

The local Maori people have several names for the peak, ….`Tititea’ which means Glistening Peak and `Te Maakahi o Tuterakiwhanoa ‘ which comes from the traditions of the Waitaha people and describes the wedge(maakahi) of a legendary figure, Tuterakiwhanoa who used it to shape landscapes.

Inclusions

  • Snow and ice climbing 
  • Anchors 
  • Belaying and rope skills 
  • Alpine rock climbing 
  • Glacier travel techniques
  • Route selection & navigation 
  • Weather analysis and forecasting 
  • Avalanche awareness 
  • Camp management and emergency shelters 
  • Crevasse and alpine rescue emergency shelters 

Do not underestimate the mountains of NZ. There are many peaks of around 3000m in height, and although they may seem small in comparison to the higher peaks of the Himalaya, our mountains offer similar valley to summit altitude gains.

Without the effects of altitude, we can concentrate on sharpening our technical skills, which can then give us the confidence to climb anywhere in the world. Comprehensive course notes are supplied, which will assist in your trip planning, equipment selection and purchase advice, what you can expect to be doing on a day to day basis, and much more.

Other Information

Duration

  • Access Fly-in, walk-out Guide Ratio 1 guide : 2 clients 
  • Prerequisites Good fitness, previous mountaineering. 
  • Accommodation Hut or bivvy 
  • Bonus Air access is included 
  • Technical climbing equipment included 
  • Course manual included 
  • All accommodation during the course will be provided hut, bivvy, tent or lodge (except the last night)

Departure

  • ​Please click on the Prices and Dates tab

This 8-day advanced technical course was developed to teach state of the art alpine climbing techniques.

It is structured with a focus on enabling a self-contained ascent of a 3000m peak in the future. The course builds upon a wide range of skills enabling you to move with confidence through the
mountain environment and preparing you for more technical routes. Whether your preference is towards technical rock routes or classic ice climbs you will find the Course a great way to attain the necessary skills.

Mount Aspiring

(3027m/9928ft grade 2+NW ridge) is the only 3000m peak outside of Mount Cook National Park.
It is called the Matterhorn of the South. The NW ridge can be accessed from the Bonar glacier by climbing up what is referred to as The Ramp. This involves up to 8-9 pitches of climbing on a snow / ice ramp which leads onto a ridge climb to the Summit snow cap. This involves snow and ice terrain up to the summit. The local Maori people have several names for the peak, ….`Tititea’ which means Glistening Peak and `Te Maakahi o Tuterakiwhanoa ‘ which comes from
the traditions of the Waitaha people and describes the wedge(maakahi) of a legendary figure, Tuterakiwhanoa who used it to shape landscapes. 

You will learn from very experienced and qualified guides the skills that have enabled them to excel in their own climbing and guiding careers. It is more than just a course. It is an opportunity to develop an approach to the mountains which has been tried, and proven, on many a successful venture.

Course content

The emphasis of our Aspiring expedition course is to climb a 3000m peak whilst expanding and re-developing the following essential skills:

  • snow and ice climbing
  • belaying and rope skills
  • glacier travel techniques
  • route selection & navigation
  • weather analysis and forecasting
  • avalanche awareness
  • camp management and emergency shelters
  • crevasse and alpine rescue
  • alpine rock climbing

Meeting and briefing in Wanaka, fly to Southern Alps - Training in alpine techniques while on the mountains - Mountaineering - Ice Climbing & Crevasse Rescue - Mountaineering Ascent of Mt Aspiring - Rest Day - Ascent of Mt Bevan - Final Day

DAY1

Meeting and briefing in Wanaka, fly to Southern Alps

We meet at 8:30am in Wanaka, check weather and conditions. All gear is checked and rental equipment fitted.
Drive to Raspberry flat helicopter staging area (approx 1 hour down the magnificent Matukituki Valley). Dress for alpine landing, then fly into Bevan Col (the start of the glacier). Here we fit crampons, rope together for glacier travel, and walk over the glacier for approximately two hours to Colin Todd hut (1800m) or camp if the weather is fine. Mid summer rewards us with light until 9-10pm. Cramponing and self arresting skills are taught and demonstrated by the guide and practiced until it becomes second nature. We go over the basic skills to ensure a consistency of technique before moving onto the more advanced skills.

 
DAY2

Training in alpine techniques while on the mountains

We perfect our cramponing skills. Snow anchors are built. Roping up for glacier travel and practice on glaciated terrain. Pitching up slopes is introduced.

 
DAY3

Mountaineering

Today we make an ascent of Mt Rolling Pin. This allows us to put skills learnt on previous days into practice on an ascent.

 
DAY4

Ice Climbing & Crevasse Rescue

Today we can move into more technical aspects such as ice climbing and crevasse rescue. A radio call provides the latest weather forecast each evening.

 
DAY5

Mountaineering Ascent of Mt Aspiring

The weather still holds so our alpine start leads us into an ascent of Mt Aspiring. This will take a full day.

 
DAY6

Rest Day

A well deserved sleep rests everyone. Bad weather rolls in giving us a chance to focus on navigation and weather, and advanced rope skills that can be practised in the hut.

 
DAY7

Ascent of Mt Bevan

Ascent of Mt Bevan. After this we make our way off the glacier to the valley floor with a descent of Bevan Col to bivi in upper West Matukituki valley.

 
DAY8

Final Day

Walk to Raspberry flat and return to Wanaka (having already done a course debrief) and the rental equipment is returned. A much welcome shower and change of clothes is in order, then everyone swaps addresses and makes plans for the next adventure over dinner and a few drinks.

NB : Please note that this itinerary is a sample only and the actual itinerary may vary at the discretion of your guide.
Weather, conditions and personal ability and needs may make changes necessary or advantageous to the participants.

Tour Prices 2015/16

NZ$5,350

 

Departure Dates 2016

 

A: Available G: Guaranteed Departure  C: Closed

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